I’m honestly not a reality show person, at all. Never have been. But there’s something so heart warmingly delightful about GBSB that drags me back in, season after season. The contestants are so bloody lovely and clever and NICE to each other. They could be having to hem a circle skirt and insert a zip within two minutes, but if someone else is struggling they drop what they’re doing to help. Or that’s what it looks like anyway. It might be the magic of TV. I love Claudia, the host who seems to know nothing about sewing but is absolutely hilarious. I love Patrick, because hnnngggpphhh. I find the newest judge, Esme, equal parts terrifying and amazing. I want to be her when I grow up.
In the latest season, the contestants had to sew a soft cup bra. In truth, this is what finally nudged me into actually opening the Pin Up Girls Classic Bra pattern I’d bought about 12 months beforehand. It was really inspiring to see the process behind sewing the bras, even if it was packaged into a neat 20 minutes and Joyce made a comment about who the hell would want to sew their own bras (me Joyce! ME). Knowing all this, you could imagine my excitement when I discovered there was a GBSB book, with lots of patterns included – even the bra! Woo! It had to be mine. So today, after having the book staring at me for about 4 months, I finally decided to give the soft cup bra a go. I’ve sort of been putting it further down my ‘Need To Sew’ list because I’m honestly more a wired bra kind of gal. Well, my boobs are. But since I’ve been getting into sewing swimwear lately, I thought I should try it out so I could potentially adjust it a bit to work as a bikini top. If nothing else, it can be my Sunday bra – you know, for the times you really should get dressed but can be arsed with proper stuff like wires. Or pants.
Here’s a list of the stuff I used:
Bra Kit from Measure Twice, Cut Once – containing lace, power mesh, picot elastic, strapping, metal findings, clasps etc. Fun side note: In a weird twist of small worldedness, Susan from Measure Twice is credited in the GBSB book. I KNOW.
Stretch dark grey tricot from Remnant Warehouse. They call it ‘Storm Cloud’. Fancy.
I traced out my pattern the way I always do – on cheapy interfacing first. You can get it in Spotlight as Trace and Toile. It’s around $2/m but they often have it on sale at $1/m. Totally worth the hassle, I guarantee it. I used to just cut my patterns, but inevitably something would be the wrong size and then I’d have a cry because I’d already cut into it. This way I have the original intact and can trace off any other sizes later down the track, whether it be for me or because I’m making a nice gift for someone else. I do that occasionally, I swear.
Before I’d even started, I knew that I wanted this baby fully lined – both for extra support and so the seams would be enclosed. Previously I wouldn’t have cared, but I’m getting weird about that sort of stuff the further I get along in my sewing journey (I’m fully aware of how wanky that sounds). The scalloped edges of the lace are obviously not enclosed by anything, so I had to have a bit of a think about what to do about the raw edge of the tricot. In the end I just folded it over and stitched along the edge to create a little hem. Worked out quite well because clear elastic ends up being sewn along that edge anyway. Another type of elastic that fits into the category of ‘Not My Friend.’
Something I found really odd was the lack of notches etc on the pattern pieces to tell you what matches where. I was glad I’d already sewn a few different bras, otherwise I would have found that really frustrating. First I sewed the cups together, lining and lace separately and then after that basted the hell out of everything and treated them as one piece.
Two lower cup pieces:
Lower cups attached to upper cup portions:
And then attached to the band:
I will admit I read through the instructions once very briefly before running off on my own tangent, but after attaching the cups to the band I felt very blah about those exposed seams. My sewing isn’t the neatest, which I know doesn’t help and my machine was pretty keen on eating the lace so it all looks a bit like a dogs breakfast. I decided to take matters into my own hands and conceal them with underwire casing, as I have done in all the other bras I’ve made. The casing gets sewn to the cup seam allowance, then you trim the allowance before sewing down the other side of the casing. I finished the bottom band with elastic before I sewed down the rest of the casing though, otherwise I would have had trouble flipping up the picot elastic on the bottom band (because it’s so narrow). I thought the casing would make everything a bit sturdier too.
Time for the elastic, which I find quite relaxing. Followed by attaching the straps and the clasps. I was eyeballing the back strap and it looked a bit long, so I wrapped it around myself and found it overlapped quite easily without the clasp. I took about an inch off either side of the band before attaching it. Bullet dodged.
Done! Looks just like the picture if you ignore the insides. Ha.
You can see the underwire casing here and I also ended up adding it to the side seams too. Covers my blerky raw edges.
And on. Betcha glad you scrolled right to the end, eh? Sorry. Just had to prove that it works quite well. Glad that I lined the whole shebang. I promise I haven’t drooled on myself, that darker patch is a trick of the light.Or is it? Guess we’ll never know. Would have been better if I’d actually faced the light, like you know, a photographer. Speaking of which, I’ve had a request for a ‘How to take better pics’ post. If you’re keen, let me know.